THE GRANDEUR OF VIGAN

By: Odette Leon

The itineraries of my first two trips to the Ilocos Region (in the early 90’s and in 2006)  did not allow me  to have a good  enough  glance of the famous UNESCO World Heritage Village --  Calle Crisologo in Vigan City.  Learning about it, my proud Ilokano cousin-in-law who has gone on  European tour commented, “Sayang,  If you’ve been to Vigan, you’ve seen Madrid. Same na same ang setting and ambiance – the cobbled-stone streets, the century old houses, etc.  Next time you go north, be sure to find time to see  VIgan.”

And so I did – during the September 14-16, 2012 Journey of Faith @  Ilocandia –  the pilgrimage for a cause organized by the Volunteer Catechists Commission.

Arriving 7pm at the Socio Pastoral Center at Vigan for our overnight rest  (about 2hours drive from Badoc Church - the fourth and last church visited  in Laoag), we had  quick refreshing up.  After having some hot noodles for dinner at nearby Chowking, we walked to Calle Crisologo. Unfortunately some souvenir shops were already closed  as it was already almost half past 8pm when we got there.  

Conscious of the 9pm curfew at the Pastoral Center, we only had some brisk browsing of souvenir items in two or three stores and were not able to buy anything and take pictures. Disappointed  but tired and sleepy, we decided to call it a day and get some rest for the next day’s schedule. 

As we hurried back to the dormitory, we were met by surprise  by the flash of the camera of our two “guardians” who were just about to start their stroll along Calle Crisologo – and experience the beauty of nightlife at the Heritage Village.

Next day, from Bantay Church and Bell Tower, three of us from my team took a tricycle ride to Calle Crisologo  -- for shopping  and picture taking as we strolled along the cobbled-stoned streets lined up with  colonial houses called “bahay na bato”  -- two storey house with the ground floor made of stone and used as rice granary and storage area while the upper floor is made of wood and used exclusively for living quarters with sliding windows made of capiz.  Some of the houses are now used as souvenir shops.

Established in the 16^th century by Chinese traders from the Fujan Province, Calle Crisologo is the main street in VIgan, the Capital City of Ilocos Sur which has withstood the trials of time specially WW II. Stories have been told that Vigan was spared from destruction out  of love.  During the later part of the WWII, retreating Japanese troops would blaze any town before leaving so that the American  forces could not make use of them.  However, one Japanese General who lived and married a local girl, made a pact with the parish priest  to spare the city in exchange for the promise that the parish priest will take care of his family.

Hence, VIgan is a city spared out of love and so impressively preserved that present day visitors are able to experience what life was centuries ago. It is no wonder it is one of the Philippines’ UNESCO World Heritage sites, the Ilocos Region is very proud of.

And to conserve the nostalgic colonial street in this UNESCO World Heritage City of VIgan,  only horse-drawn kalesas are allowed to enter and pass by Calle Crisologo.  And so from there, to complete our Vigan experience, we took a calesa ride going to Gov. Chavit’s Baluarte Zoo to meet our other co-pilgrims.